The Vajra Parrot Squawks!

This morning the whole gompa celebrated the birthday of the Dalai Lama with an elaborate ceremony in the lhakang.

I sat with the monks and absorbed the chanting, ritual and music. Tibetan Buddhism is great for that sort of thing. Being rather too close to one of the drummers ensured that I felt up-close-and-personal the vibration of every single drum beat, which was akin to receiving a small electric shock coursing through the body; the wailing of the gyaling trumpets assaulted my eardrums.

The high point of the ceremony was the offering of a silk scarf to the Dalai Lama. Everyone present draped one across his throne and touched their heads to it as a mark of respect. The silk scarf, so widespread in Tibet, is a representation of the marigold garland used in India to drape around the necks of honoured people. An ancient custom. Maybe the flowers don't grow in such profusion in Tibet whereas silkworms flourish ...

Yesterday Gen Kunsang and I went on a walk to Chatral Rinpoche's monastery up in the hills. Chatral Rinpoche, who's 98, and as strong as an ox, is widely regarded as one of the most accomplished meditators on Earth. In a secluded and pleasant spot, his gompa has only about 20-something monks, all of whom were engaged in some practice sponsored by the local farmers.

In no time we were plied with cup after cup of butter tea (if you think of it as soup, rather than tea, it's easier to drink) and then served a very pleasant lunch. One tip with Tibetan hospitality is never to finish what's in your cup or on your plate, because if you do you can be sure that someone will try to fill it again. With butter tea, it's not something one would wish to encourage.

Anyway, this evening starts a 3 month spate of more solitary activity. In the meantime:

"In the land encircled by snow mountains
You are the source of all happiness and good;
All-powerful Chenrezig, Tenzin Gyatso,
Please remain until samsara ends."

Gang ri ra wä kor wäi zhing kham dir
Phän dang de wa ma lü jung wäi nä
Chän rä zig wang tän dzin gya tsho yi
Zhab pä si thäi bar du tän gyur chig